Check out the state of Herb-i-Islami (my 1969 Beelte in Kabul) inside and out. She’s in dire need of a bit of love!

The improvised ignition is my favourite Afghan addition to the original Teutonic design. A floating button, normally kept behind the back seat, which looks remarkably like a detonator. Most of the wiring is on display as well, so peering in the window it looks a bit like how I’d imagine the inside of a suicide bomber’s car would look to a policeman.

Of course, there’s bugger all storage space, so Beetles aren’t much good for drugs or bombs. Maybe that’s why I got such a good price in the bazaar.

I’ve also found the Chassis No - #119298924 - which proves she was built in ‘69. But I’m desperate to find out how she got here? Is there a way of tracing the place she was first built and sold?



The Times
Jerome Starkey in Kabul 

In many ways Afghan soldiers are better suited to complex counter-insurgency operations than either the British, whom the Afghans remember as brutal 19th-century imperialists, or the Americans, whom they see as our modern-day equivalents.

Afghan forces understand tribal dynamics and the fluid nature of village influence and they can exploit them. When, as sometimes happens, they are heavy-handed, it is marginally less galling to the people whom they hurt because they are, at the very least, fellow Afghans.

For all these strengths, the Afghan Army is perhaps a generation from taking full control of this graveyard of empires. Any date for outright transition reflects waning Nato interest in the nine-year war, rather than progress on the ground. The army and the police are growing fast. There are 30,000 soldiers in training. But the numbers are not enough to quell an ideological insurgency against a government that is seen as predatory, selfish and corrupt.



The Times
Jerome Starkey in Kabul

Britain will spend an extra £200 million in Afghanistan between now and 2014 as part of a 40 per cent rise in aid to prepare for a military withdrawal.

Andrew Mitchell, the International Development Secretary, will today announce plans to increase assistance to Afghanistan from £500 million to £700 million, despite claims that billions of pounds have already been wasted. Tomorrow a major international conference in Kabul will be attended by Hillary Clinton, the US Secretary of State, and 40 foreign ministers including William Hague.



The Times
Jerome Starkey and Roland Watson 

President Obama and David Cameron have been warned that their plan to bring troops home from Afghanistan before 2015 is too hasty and risks leaving behind an Afghan army that is ill equipped to fend off the Taleban. Liam Fox, the Defence Secretary, said yesterday that combat troops would be home by 2014, although significant numbers are likely to remain to continue training local security forces.

But as President Karzai oversees a conference this week in Kabul that seeks to prepare for such a withdrawal, some in the Afghan capital cautioned that he was far too optimistic. Daoud Sultanzoy, an Afghan MP, said: “Six to eight years would be more realistic. A national army is not built by forced injection of technical training and technical assistance. You have to instil a culture that emanates from the national political leadership, and that has not matured in this country yet.”



This is Kabul’s Number 1 Beetle Man. Zia Hassan Faqiri the mechanic said he’s been working on Volkswagens in Afghanistan for 45 years. As far as I can tell, it’s Kabul’s only (semi) authorised VW garage. There’s even a little logo at the top of his shop! 

Back in the day, he said, the VW garage was the biggest in the city - servicing all the overland vehicles from Europe. He remembers Beetles, he said, with mechanical indicators (any idea when they were phased out?).
There was a ‘73 model parked in front of the garage with Swiss plates underneath the Afghan licenses.
Fakhri’s the man in charge of reconditioning the engine in my newly bought 1969 Beetle (which my Aussie housemate ingeniously dubbed Herbi-i-Islami). Super film maker Sam French is helping us record it for a video blog.
When I told Fakhri that I thought we’d probably end up being good friends (because I expect to visit his shop almost every day from now on ever) he seemed genuinely surprised. Once every six months, he said.
Thanks to all the Beetle enthusiasts, especially Desert Dingo Racing, who have already been in touch with ideas and advice. I’ve ordered this idiot’s guide book.
The plan is evolving everyday, but this Beetle could just become my exit strategy. I’ve been in Afghanistan almost four years and by the time it’s ready to drive back to England, that might be just be when I leave.
Inshallah!

This is Kabul’s Number 1 Beetle Man. Zia Hassan Faqiri the mechanic said he’s been working on Volkswagens in Afghanistan for 45 years. As far as I can tell, it’s Kabul’s only (semi) authorised VW garage. There’s even a little logo at the top of his shop! 

Back in the day, he said, the VW garage was the biggest in the city - servicing all the overland vehicles from Europe. He remembers Beetles, he said, with mechanical indicators (any idea when they were phased out?).

There was a ‘73 model parked in front of the garage with Swiss plates underneath the Afghan licenses.

Fakhri’s the man in charge of reconditioning the engine in my newly bought 1969 Beetle (which my Aussie housemate ingeniously dubbed Herbi-i-Islami). Super film maker Sam French is helping us record it for a video blog.

When I told Fakhri that I thought we’d probably end up being good friends (because I expect to visit his shop almost every day from now on ever) he seemed genuinely surprised. Once every six months, he said.

Thanks to all the Beetle enthusiasts, especially Desert Dingo Racing, who have already been in touch with ideas and advice. I’ve ordered this idiot’s guide book.

The plan is evolving everyday, but this Beetle could just become my exit strategy. I’ve been in Afghanistan almost four years and by the time it’s ready to drive back to England, that might be just be when I leave.

Inshallah!



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Copyright Jerome Starkey 2010. Contact: jeromestarkey@gmail.com