But until recently, most of the country was still safe enough to travel in. The hardest part of the job is knowing where’s safe and where’s not, and weighing the risks of an excursion against the potential benefits of the story.

We could live in heavily guarded compounds, like the diplomats, and only drive around in armoured convoys, with armed men on the roof every time we stop. But it’s hard to talk to people like that, and almost impossible to get them to tell you the truth.

Instead we rely on our wits and a bit of local knowledge. If you don’t know where you’re going you can stop people on the way. (Read More)